My 10 best dishes of 2023
KUALA LUMPUR, Dec 31 — Few pleasures in life are simpler and greater than eating well, and writing about it is one of my greatest joys.
This year, I've had the privilege of savouring an array of delectable dishes — munching, crunching and nibbling on some, while chewing, chomping and gobbling down others; and indulging in the passionate act of gnawing, devouring and swallowing a few truly special ones.
Some dishes are a visual feast, captivating not just the eyes but all the senses; others, while less photogenic, reaffirm that the magic of a truly great dish goes far beyond its appearance.
Kai si hor fun at Guang Ji Ho Fun & Chicken Rice
Guang Ji does right by this Ipoh icon: the flavour, balance and consistency in their prawn and chicken broth is second to none, and on more recent visits, I felt the hor fun had also gotten smoother.
Guang Ji Ho Fun & Chicken Rice
38, Jalan San Peng, Pudu, Kuala Lumpur.
One of my absolute favourites: gyu-tan stew from Sion Dining and Bar.
Gyu-tan stew at Sion Dining and Bar
This is a dish so rich, so lavish, so indulgent that it doesn’t just leave a lasting impression — rather, it plumbs the depths of your entire being, taking root at the very centre of your worldview. Soft and tender, medallions of braised ox tongue are blanketed in a dark, silky demi-glace sauce marbled by flecks of cream here and there. Heaven on earth.
Sion Dining & Bar
B-1-16 Block B, 1, Jalan PJU 1a/20a, Dataran Ara Damansara, Petaling Jaya.
Satay from Satay Kajang Zai.
Satay at Satay Kajang Zai
Back in October, I described the satay at Satay Kajang Zai as a “stellar symphony of skewers and fire”; it is a description I still firmly stand by. All three types of meat are grilled to perfection, but the lamb stands alone as the best, coupled with a properly addictive peanut sauce that you'll want extra of.
Satay Kajang Zai
Stall in front of Nasi Kandar Deen Bistro, 2, Jalan 31/70a, Desa Sri Hartamas, Kuala Lumpur.
Steamed Sultan fish in yellow wine, a gem of a dish from Fatt Hei Len Restaurant.
Steamed Sultan fish in yellow wine at Fatt Hei Len Restaurant
They’re not reinventing the wheel here, but I’ll be damned if I don't consider this dish a masterpiece. Typically prepared with patin, your choice of freshwater fish is steamed to perfection so that the skin is slippery-smooth, the flesh supple and sweet, and it all sits in a spicy and syrupy yellow wine sauce.
Fatt Hei Len Restaurant
8, Jalan 30A/119, Taman Taynton View, Cheras, Kuala Lumpur.
YHK BBQ Chicken Wings does the best chicken wings.
BBQ chicken wings at YHK BBQ Chicken Wings
It really doesn't get any simpler than this — barbecued chicken wings. There's no special chicken, neat tricks or fancy gimmicks, just a patient, relentless master at work, taking the humble wing and elevating it to a smoky, luscious and lip-smacking piece of art.
Yi Yi Tou Restaurant YHK BBQ Chicken Wings
1, Jalan 15/38D, Taman Sri Sinar, Kuala Lumpur.
Bilal Nasi Kandar has some of the best 'ayam kicap' and 'perut kambing' I’ve ever tasted.
Nasi kandar at Bilal Nasi Kandar
It almost feels like cheating to call nasi kandar a “single dish”, given the wide variety of lauk that one can choose to pile their plate high with. But at Bilal Nasi Kandar, the selection is focused on a few excellent dishes, paired with brilliant curries. Highlights include ayam kicap, perut kambing and ayam bawang.
Bilal Nasi Kandar
No 78, Block J, Flat PKNS, Jalan 17/1a, Seksyen 17, Petaling Jaya.
Bún bò Huế from Bun Viet Restaurant.
Bún bò Huế at Bun Viet Restaurant
There’s more to Vietnamese noodles than pho and this spicy, floral and citrusy bowl of bún bò Huế is a delicious testament to the fact. Rice noodles, slices of beef and chả lụa are joined by a medley of fresh herbs, including Thai basil, mint, cilantro and a boatload of lemongrass for a punchy, flavourful bowl.
Bun Viet Restaurant
16, Jalan Puteri 5/5, Bandar Puteri, Puchong.
'Ju hu char' from Sri Nyonya Restaurant.
Ju hu char at Sri Nyonya Restaurant
This classic Peranakan dish of stir-fried jicama and shredded cuttlefish gets a fiery, rock-and-roll treatment and comes out aggressively darkened, caramelised and supremely smoky. Eat it wrapped in a fresh piece of lettuce for maximum effect.
Sri Nyonya Restaurant
14, Jalan 22/49, Seksyen 22, Petaling Jaya.
'Wantan mee' at Lam Kee Wantan Noodles come with amazing barbecued pork ribs.
Wantan mee at Lam Kee Wantan Noodles
As their name suggests, Lam Kee serves only one thing here but boy, do they do it well. The noodles are springy, and all the different choices of toppings are good, but it's the barbecued pork ribs that you cannot miss. These smoky, bite-sized nuggets of meat on the bone set Lam Kee apart from the rest.
Lam Kee Wantan Noodles
30, Jalan Bunga Tanjung 10A, Taman Muda, Kuala Lumpur.
Braised fried tofu and fish at Peng Nam Restaurant.
Braised fried tofu and fish at Peng Nam Restaurant
All of the signature dishes at Peng Nam Restaurant in Rawang are excellent, but the braised fried tofu and fish are far and away the best demonstrations of classic Chinese cooking techniques: the slices of tofu and fish are deep fried before being braised in a thick fermented soybean-based sauce, achieving a craggy, halfway crispy, halfway soaked texture that's delightful.
Peng Nam Restaurant
43, Jln Welman, Rawang.
*All articles linked above were independent reviews where the writer paid for the meals.
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
