Where laid-back island charm meets spectacular landscapes – an expert guide to Kingstown, St Vincent

Why go?

If sleepy cities and virginal landscapes are more your thing than mega resorts and glitz, the island of St Vincent is for you. Cruise into the historic island capital of Kingstown and its laid-back charm unfurls within strolling distance – venture further and the wildness of St Vincent tempts with its waterfalls and beaches.

Cruise port location

Handily the SVG Cruise Ship Terminal lies very close to the centre of Kingstown. Note that if two ships are already docked you will probably be taken ashore by tender.

Can I walk to any places of interest?

The centre of bijou Kingstown is just a few minutes walk to the north, so you can get to most of the main sights easily on foot, though landmark Fort Charlotte lies on the other side of town, so it is worth getting transport there and working your way back.

Getting around

St Vincent's transport network as such consists of a hotchpotch of private vans, which are much cheaper than the taxis that await outside the cruise terminal. The vans offer a window into island life, though some drivers can verge on the reckless. Similarly, if you rent a car (you’ll need a temporary driving licence), watch out for these oncoming van drivers.

What to see and do

Exploring the island capital of Kingstown is the main attraction, with key colonial-era sights including landmark Fort Charlotte and the lush Botanical Gardens. There is plenty to detain you, as this small city is very much laid out on a human scale, but beyond it lie beaches, forests and waterfalls, with offshore islands beckoning, too.

What can I do in four hours or less?

Given its proximity to the cruise terminal and small size, you really don’t need an excursion to explore Kingstown. To save time, take a taxi to Fort Charlotte, then work your way back. This former British garrison dates back to the early 19th century – its commanding view of the town and archipelago demonstrates exactly why it was built here. You can ramble around in the footsteps of British troops, shopping for handicrafts rather than hulking rifles around. Its modest museum delves into the colonial history of St Vincent and the Grenadines, also touching on the Caribs, who fought fiercely to fend off the Europeans.

Drop down into Kingstown’s centre and appreciate its graceful architecture, with its arched stone buildings and covered walkways harking back to a gentler age. The Botanical Gardens are one of the oldest in the western hemisphere, founded in 1765, renowned as much for their aviaries as their rich floral displays.

If you just want to relax, grab a taxi instead to Villa Beach. P&O Cruises also runs a Best of St Vincent tour, offering an island snapshot, which works well for those not keen on tramping all day, as much of it is on a bus. It also offers the chance to see beyond the capital. It takes in Fort Charlotte and the Botanical Gardens, before continuing on to the Mesopotamia Valley, known locally as the island’s 'Food Basket', with its swathe of fruit growing, including banana plantations. The tour culminates in style with an island rum punch.

What can I do in eight hours or less?

For a taste of city and beach, walk into Kingstown then catch a taxi out to Villa Beach, asking the driver to pick you up later for a return to the ship. Beyond Kingstown, much of St Vincent remains fairly virginal so an excursion is recommended. Marella’s Aqua Terra –Waterfall & Coastal Tour lets you uncover the natural side of the island on a seven-hour tour that kicks off with a catamaran trip to Bat Cave to meet its noisy residents, before a transfer to Dark View, a spectacular waterfall where the water plunges 75ft. You can enjoy a dip in a pool below.

Lunch is in a beachfront restaurant and the day culminates at Wallilabou. Fans of Pirates of the Caribbean films should recognise the bay as 'Port Royal', one of the main Caribbean locations used by Johnny Depp, Keira Knightley, and the rest of the cast and crew. The stars today for eagle-eyed visitors are dolphins, who can sometimes be seen in the bay.

If low key St Vincent isn’t laidback enough for you, Holland America offer a Bequia Day Sail aboard a catamaran, where you can channel your inner Robinson Crusoe. This soporific wee isle lies nine miles south and retains a taste of its old fishing roots. It also has a sprinkling of decent shops. The tour features a visit to a superb snorkelling spot as well as swimming time at one of the best stretches of sand, Princess Margaret Beach. The waters here are crystal clear so it’s ideal for snorkelling.

Eat and drink

St Vincent is not about haute cuisine nor, mercifully, international fast food. Kingstown’s informal eateries offer real Caribbean cuisine with fresh local seafood and bountiful island vegetables high in the mix. The local rotis are delicious, whether filled with curried meat or seafood. Rum is, of course, the local tipple of choice. The appositely named Sunset Rum is ideal as a (albeit potent) sundowner.

Don’t leave without…

There is decent shopping within the cruise ship terminal (duty free and souvenirs), but more interesting retail experiences await in town. Look out for little markets, where you can pick up characterful souvenirs such as handcrafted shell bracelets.

Need to know

Flight time

There are no direct flights from London to Kingstown. Both British Airways and Virgin Atlantic can arrange travel with one stop and a codeshare partner flight on the second leg with a fastest journey time of 12 hours.

Safety

Most visits are trouble free on one of the safer islands in the Caribbean. Robberies do happen so take all the usual precautions and be especially careful after dark. Be wary of swimming or snorkelling alone on secluded beaches as water conditions constantly change.

Best time to go

The main Caribbean cruise season runs from December to April during the driest and sunniest season. Crucially it is usually hurricane free. The wetter months from May-November are much less popular. The best decent weather bargains tend to be found in the few weeks before and after the main season.

Closures

Normally, shops are open from around 8am or 9am to 4pm or 5pm. Many shops and other businesses frame their opening hours around the comings and goings of cruise liners so you will find most open when you are here.