What you should know about Taman Negara
Taman Negara is a breathtakingly beautiful place, as well as being a vital haven for rare flora and fauna. Covering some 4,343 square kilometres, it is by far the largest national park in Malaysia. It is also the oldest, having been established in 1938-9, as the King George V National Park.
Taman Negara is so vast that it straddles three states: Pahang, Kelantan and Terengganu. It is an incredible ecological resource in a country where so much primary forest has been lost over recent decades. The park permit costs RM1, while RM5 is charged for a camera licence. Taman Negara is administered by the Department of Wildlife and National Parks.
The park’s most popular entrance is at Kuala Tahan, which is easily reachable by public transport from Jerantut, and has a good choice of sleeping and eating options. The other entrances - Sungai Relau (near Merapoh); Kuala Koh (best reached from Gua Musang); and Tanjung Mentong (boats from Gawi) - are much less visited.
Taman Negara would not exist today but for tireless efforts of one man, Theodore Hubback. For more than 15 years he campaigned for a wildlife conservation area in the mountainous interior of Malaya. He died just three years after his dream was realised. Sadly, there is no memorial to this remarkable man within Taman Negara.
Even near Kuala Tahan, it is surprisingly easy to escape the crowds, and enjoy the majesty of this ancient forest. The vegetation varies from the tropical rainforest in lowland areas, to cloud forest at the highest elevations. In all, the park is believed to support some 14,000 plant species.
There are a large number of trails in the park, from short strolls, to multi-day treks. For longer hikes you are strongly advised to hire a guide, which can be arranged independently, or through a tour company. Neither is a cheap option, but getting lost in Taman Negara is no joke.
The park’s ultimate challenge is climbing Gunung Tahan, at 2,187 metres the highest mountain in West Malaysia. The classic route - from Kuala Tahan and back - takes seven days or more. A shorter option (three to four days) is the return trail from Sungai Relau. Tackling Gunung Tahan is not for the faint-hearted!
Taman Negara has a number of navigable waterways, making boat rides worth considering if you have limited time, or are not keen on walking long distances. It always pays to arrange trips in advance, although you may be able to flag down a passing boat.
The park is home to some 200 mammal species, including elephants, tigers, and rhinoceroses, as well as about 300 bird species, and abundant reptile, fish and insect life. However, the area is so vast, that any sort of sighting - even elephant dung - should be treated as a bonus.
Probably your best chance of spotting rare wildlife - although by no means guaranteed - is by staying overnight at one of the bambuns (park hides). These structures are situated close to salt licks, which attract visiting animals, particularly in the evening and early morning. Hides need to be booked in advance with park officials.
Insects play a vital role in maintaining the health of the forest, from pollinating flowers, to breaking down fallen trees. And where there are small insects, there are larger ones waiting to feast on them, like this spider.
Even without any luck when it comes to fauna, Taman Negara is full of weird and wonderful flora. It is here that a knowledgable guide really comes into his own, being able to point out interesting plants which you might otherwise miss.
Taman Negara forms part of the ancestral range of the Batek people, whose forefathers first came to what is now Malaysia some 40-60,000 years ago. When the park was created, it was intended to offer a refuge for the Batek, and this is more necessary today than ever before. Please give these people the respect and privacy their deserve, and do not go on organised tours to their villages.
