The war in Gaza reshapes Ramadan into a somber ritual in Jerusalem's Old City
The Islamic holy month of Ramadan, which ends this week, is a time of spiritual renewal, communal bonding and reflection on one's relationship with God and fellow human beings.
But this year, in Jerusalem’s Old City and across the Muslim world, evening feasts to observe the end to a day of fasting have been shaped by sadness and frugality.
Like many Muslims, chef Izzeldin Bukhari and his mother, Hala, of Jerusalem have forgone traditional extravagant “break fast” meals for simple dishes out of sympathy for the suffering of fellow Palestinians trapped in a ferocious war in the Gaza Strip between Israel and the Hamas militant group.
On a recent Friday, as the call to prayer echoed through the Old City’s Muslim quarter, the pair broke their fast in silence, eating reheated leftovers and stale bread dipped in a garlicky sauce.
Israeli security officers stand guard as Muslims worshippers line up to enter through the entrance of the Al-Aqsa compound in the old city of Jerusalem, Israel, Monday, March 11, 2024. The holy month of Ramadan is one of the most festive time of the year for Muslims, but with the war in Gaza and increased security to the holy site of Al-Aqsa Mosque, the mood this year is somber in the old city of Jerusalem. A man hands out water to those on their way to Al Aqsa Mosque along a path that this year is devoid of the usual Ramadan decorations.
A man hands out water to devout Muslims on their way to Al-Aqsa through a path devoid of any Ramadan decorations in the old city of Jerusalem, Israel, Friday, April 5, 2024. The path takes many through neighborhoods that were always decorated with Ramadan lights & festive ornaments. Neighborhoods competed with one another for being the most decorated. This year the pilgrimage through the darkness and paths devoid of signs of any festivities towards the holy site is a somber reminder of the war in Gaza.
Like many Palestinians, the Bukharis have relatives in Gaza, where most have been unable to escape six months of Israeli bombardment that has killed more than 33,000, mostly women and children, according to Gazan officials. The war began Oct. 7 when Hamas-led militants from Gaza attacked southern Israel, where about 1,200 people were killed and about 200 taken hostage, authorities say.
In addition to widespread destruction, Gazans are enduring severe shortages of food and medicine and face possible famine in the coming weeks, according to aid groups.
The staggering death toll and scale of suffering changed how Ramadan has been observed. Jerusalem, home to some of Islam’s most holy sites, is normally festive with music, bright lights and colorful decorations along the Muslim Quarter’s stone alleyways.
This year, worshipers walked through dimly lit paths, devoid of signs of celebration, a somber reminder of the war in Gaza.
Yam reported from Jerusalem and Wilkinson from Washington.
This story originally appeared in Los Angeles Times.