Sublime 'or chien' and other excellent Chinese comfort food at Shin Ong Lai Restaurant in Chow Kit
KUALA LUMPUR, Dec 10 — I was recently reminded of the ever-changing nature of Kuala Lumpur’s restaurant scene when I stepped into Shin Ong Lai, a new iteration of Restaurant Ong Lai (Goh Kee).
This popular late-night haunt previously operated at Jalan Raja Laut, offering dai chow fare in a setting with the lowest frills: think alleyway al fresco.
The new-ish (they opened in 2019) digs are just down the street, along Jalan Tiong Nam where they occupy three lots on the first floor and a single ground-floor lot in some newly developed shop lots.
Gone are the fold-up tables and faded red umbrellas, replaced with bright ceiling lights, air-conditioning and bigger tables, tablecloths and even lazy susans!
I strongly recommend calling ahead to make a reservation, as it was incredibly busy on the Sunday night I visited.
I watched as the dedicated door staff, in the nicest tone possible, told a couple that they’d have to wait close to 40 minutes for a table right after barking information into their walkie-talkies.
The alley that the original Restaurant Ong Lai (Goh Kee) formerly operated out of.
Service here is extremely efficient and rivals even that of banquet restaurants, though without the niceties and embellishments of the latter.
Much has changed, but the food has mostly remained the same.
The signature Oyster Omelette (RM25) remains a firm favourite and is one of the best I’ve had in recent memory.
The scale of the dining room at Shin Ong Lai.
The new look of Shin Ong Lai.
While I can appreciate the appeal of a thick, starchy consistency, I prefer or chien that isn’t a gloppy mess of cornstarch and resembles an omelette.
Every bit of egg is browned, every oyster is plump and juicy and they don’t slip out of the omelette like softer, starchier ones often do.
Stir-fried Chives with Pork Intestine (RM25) come with both kidney and intestines, but I’m not a fan of the sandy, crumbly texture of pork kidney when it’s cooked so we ordered it with intestines only.
'Or chien' here actually allows you to pick up both oyster and egg easily.
The garlic chives impart a mild garlic flavour while retaining a pleasant crunch that complements the springy texture of the intestine slices.
A generous dose of cooking wine sweetens the deal, adding yet another layer to the overall flavour profile.
While rice is the conventional way to go with the spread of dishes here, there are also a handful of noodle dishes here that you can order.
Stir-fried Chives with Intestines here are excellent.
My favorite is the Fried Glass Noodles (RM28): slick, springy, and infused with an intense smokiness from the wok hei.
Heaps of Chinese celery add plenty of crunch and a subtle bitterness to the dish.
A wildcard dish that took us all by surprise, Claypot Pork Tendon fried with Pork Belly (RM55) was a lip-smacking treat.
A standout noodle dish, Fried Glass Noodles.
Claypot Pork Tendon fried with Pork Belly was rich and satisfying.
The gelatinous pieces of tendon, tender and melt-in-the-mouth, beautifully complemented the thin slices of pork belly.
Enriched with rendered fat, the savoury, luscious sauce acts like a lip gloss, coating every corner of your mouth.
There’s a fine line to tread upon when it comes to re-openings, but I think Shin Ong Lai strikes the perfect balance.
The sign for Shin Ong Lai can be seen from quite a distance.
It’s kept all the things that got people going there in the first place, while adding value to the overall experience.
While a part of me misses the charm of sitting under the night sky and chowing down on or chien late into the night, a sudden rain shower as we paid the bill made me grateful to be comfortably dry, no longer missing plastic stools and faded red umbrellas.
Shin Ong Lai Restaurant 新旺来饭店
No 6, Lorong Tiong Nam 3, Chow Kit, Kuala Lumpur
Open Tuesday to Sunday, 12–2:30 pm, 5:30–9:30 pm
Tel: 017-283 2996
Facebook:@shinonglaiofficial
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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