The Definitive Guide to Creating a Skincare Routine

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It's a good time to be really into skincare, with more serums, spot treatments, and SPFs than I can possibly keep track of. The downside? Figuring out the best skincare routine order can be tricky as hell. After all, what's the difference between toner and essence, and can you use both in one routine? Or how do you apply a spot treatment and a face oil in the same routine? It can be a mystery even to those of us who work in the biz, testing and learning about products day in and day out—but the good news is that you're def not alone.

Even better: It's totally possible to make sense of it all, especially if you have expert dermatologists laying out the steps of your skincare routine for you. And that's exactly what I'm doing here, because it's a big deal. The order of your skincare routine, as well as how and when you apply your skincare products, can make a huge difference in your results. In fact, they can even help you avoid potential skin concerns like irritation and breakouts.

So, whether you want the laziest-yet-most-effective skincare routine or need to know how to layer your arsenal of 10+ products, keep reading for all the details. And don't miss the tons tips to make skincare your thing and the best products for your exact skin type (from oily to sensitive to dry to acne-prone).

How do I start my skincare routine?

PSA: You do not need a 10-step skincare routine (or even a 5-step routine). "Less is more when it comes to your skin—I'm all about product reducing,"says dermatologist Karan Lal, MD. "In reality, our skin chemistry needs hydration and moisture to maintain a good skin barrier, which you can get from just a few products." And, as virtually all dermatologists agree, those products include the following:

Three required skincare products:

• Cleanser: a gentle, sulfate-free face wash free

• Moisturizer: a simple fragrance-free formula that can be used twice a day

• Sunscreen: a mineral- or chemical-based sunscreen with at least SPF 30

That's it—the three most important skincare products are just a cleanser, moisturizer, and SPF. It’s not glamorous, but good skin doesn’t need to be (just ask your dermatologist or anyone on the Cosmo beauty team—simple is always better). The more products you layer on, the higher your risk is for irritation, allergic reactions, and breakouts, notes Dr. Lal.

If you're looking to build a slightly more advanced skincare routine, you can! But you don't need to. "If you can consistently stick with those three basic products and you want to add more, try a retinoid," says Dr. Lal. "After three months, if your skin is ready, add a vitamin C." But any additional products? "It's not gonna help—I think five products is the max you skin can handle at once," says Dr. Lal.

What age should you start a skincare routine?

You can start a skincare routine at any age. In fact, the sooner you start, the better, says dermatologist Jessie Cheung, MD. "You’re never too young to start protecting your skin," she notes. If you're a beginner, start with the above routine (cleanser, moisturizer, SPF—the holy trinity, IMO), and slowly add in products depending on what your skin needs.

Your skincare routine order and steps

Need a preview of what a full skincare routine should look like in the proper order? Here’s a little guide to screenshot. But before you freak out at seeing a 10-step routine, don’t worry: You really only need three products for a great, simple routine (more on that below).

How to build and layer your skincare routine

“The rule of thumb when applying skincare is to apply the lightest first and the heaviest last, since thinner products can’t penetrate thicker products,” says dermatologist Shereene Idriss, MD. Example: Layering a serum (thin) over your moisturizer (thick) would render that serum almost ineffective, because it can't penetrate your skin when there's an occlusive barrier on top of it already.

SKINCARE ROUTINE ORDER

Step 1: Cleanser

⏰: morning and night

Please, for the love of the beauty gods, remove your makeup and wash your face before slathering on your products. “For ingredients to absorb properly, you need clean skin that’s totally free of oil and grime,” says dermatologist Mona Gohara, MD, which is where double-cleansing comes in.

The simplest method is to remove your makeup with a cleansing oil or cleansing balm (neither is "better" than the other; it's just personal preference). It'll dissolve all the makeup on your face without stripping your skin. Then, follow that up with a gentle cleanser depending on your skin type:

✔️ How to choose the best cleanser for your skin type

• Dry skin: The best type of face wash for dry skin should be creamy, non-foaming face washes with barrier-boosting ingredients like ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and glycerin.

• Oily skin: Avoid too-stripping formulas (like charcoal-, sulfate-, and clay-based cleansers) and look instead for gel-based face washes or gentle foaming cleansers for oily skin.

• Acne-prone skin: Opt for a cleanser with added acne-fighting ingredients, like salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide.

• Sensitive skin: Try a gentle, creamy face wash filled with soothing colloidal oatmeal, aloe vera, and niacinamide.

Q: "Do I really need to cleanse skin in the morning?"

It depends, tbh. If you have oily or acne-prone skin, then yes—cleansing after you wake up can be a good way to get rid of any grime or shine that's collected overnight. (Plus, if you're using anti-acne ingredients like salicylic acid, they can work extra ~magic~.) However, if you have dry or sensitive skin, you prob don't need to re-wash ahead of the rest of your routine.

Toleriane Hydrating Gentle Face Cleanser

Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser

Acne Control Cleanser

Cleansing Serum

Step 2: Toner

⏰: morning and/or night

Face toners used to be terrible, alcohol-based liquids that burned your face. But today’s (good) toners are either (1) filled with gentle, hydrating ingredients for dry and sensitive skin, or (2) filled with chemical exfoliants to treat acne and bumps. “Toners are not meant to be something that sits around on your skin and feels heavy,” says Dr. Gohara. “They’re just priming your face for ingredients to be better absorbed later on.”

Reminder: Toner (like most of the steps on this list) is totally optional, but if your toner smells like nail polish remover or alcohol, you need to ditch it—fast—and find an updated version instead. Here's how:

✔️ How to choose the best toner for your skin type

• Acne-prone/oily skin: The best toner for both oily skin and acne-prone skin will be one filled with either BHA (beta hydroxy acid, like salicylic acid) or AHA (alpha hydroxy acid, like glycolic acid or lactic acid), which work to unclog pores, prevent breakouts, and dissolve blackheads over time.

  • How to use toner ↠
    Tap acid-based toners over clean, dry skin every other night (or every other morning, if you plan to use a retinol at night), then wait 60 seconds before layering on another product to prevent accidentally neutralizing the acid.
    

• Dry/sensitive skin: Both dry skin and sensitive skin types do best with hydrating toners (although all skin types, even acne-prone, can benefit) because they help replenish the water your skin barrier lost when you washed and dried your face.

  • How to apply toner ↠
    After cleansing, tap your hydrating toner over your clean, dry skin every morning, every night, or both: “There’s no such thing as too much moisture, regardless of your skin type,” says Dr. Gohara.

Q: "Is toner the same thing as an essence?"

Toners and essences are pretty interchangeable in their consistencies, so if you’re looking for when to use your essence in your skincare routine, use it as step 2 (instead of a toner). But if you happen to have both in your routine, swipe on a toner first, then pat in an essence (think of it like a thin moisturizer-serum hybrid).

Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid

First Aid Beauty Oil-Minimizing Toner With Salicylic Acid

Cream Skin Toner & Moisturizer

Balancing Force Oil Control Toner

Acne

Biossance Squalane + BHA Pore-Minimizing Toner

Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid

Peach & Lily The Good Acids Pore Toner

Hydrating

Awakening Milk & Honey Toner

CosRx Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence

Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Salicylic Acid Exfoliant

Hada Labo Gokujyn Hyaluronic Acid

Cosrx Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence

Snail Rescue Blemish Busting Toner

Banila Co Dear Hydration Intense Essence

Step 3: Face Serum

⏰: morning and/or night

“Serums are essentially shots of extremely concentrated nutrients, hydrators, or antioxidants that really amp up your skin health as soon as you apply them,” says Dr. Gohara. “People often skip out on using them, but they’re honestly the heavy lifters of your skincare routine.” So, while serums are totally optional, they’re often a good first step in leveling up your skincare routine and boosting your skin health.

✔️ How to choose the best face serum for your skin type

In the morning…

For almost all skin types, Dr. Gohara, Dr. Lal, Dr. Idriss, and every other derm in existence, swears by using vitamin C serum in the morning, which protects your skin from inflammation and damage caused by environmental factors, while also brightening dark spots over time. Just note: Vitamin C can be strong, so if your skin is sensitive, use it every other morning (or every two mornings) instead.

At night…

Though serums are optional, all skin type scan benefit from using a hydrating, hyaluronic-acid-based serum at night (and, honestly, in the morning too), which pulls into your skin from the air to keep it hydrated. “If you’re using acne treatments or anti-aging products—which can be drying or irritating—you want to prep your skin with as much moisture as possible first,” says Dr. Idriss.

Q: "Can I use multiple serums at the same time?"

Def. But when it comes to layering serums, keep in mind the thin-to-thick rule, says Dr. Cheung. "The thicker serums may impede the absorption of the thinner formulations," she notes. So you'll want to start with your watery, vitamin C serums, then layer on rich, creamy formulas after.

Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum

Good (Skin) Days C’s The Day Serum

Buttah Skin Vitamin C Serum

Clarifique Pro-Solution Face Serum

Buttah Skin Vitamin C Serum

SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic Serum

Epi.Logic Daily Dose Vitamin C Serum

Mineral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Face Serum

The Inkey List Hyaluronic Acid Serum

The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA

Glow Recipe Plum Plum Hyaluronic Acid Serum

P.M.

Brightening Dark Spot Vitamin C Serum

The Plant Base Waterfall Moist Balanced Hyaluronic Acid 100

Cosmedica Hyaluronic Acid Serum

Super Serum

Rose Ingleton MD Calming Hydration Booster Serum

Step 4: Eye cream

⏰: morning and/or night

Eye creams tend to be lighter and thinner than face moisturizers, so make sure to apply them before your creams and oils (remember: lighter products go before heavier products). But an important note: Eye creams are not necessary for most people. “As long as you’re using moisturizer and sunscreen, your eye area is already getting the TLC it needs,” says Dr. Gohara.

✔️ How to choose the best eye cream for your skin type

In the morning…

Look for an eye cream that's packed with caffeine, which helps temporarily constrict and tighten puffy under-eyes within 20 minutes. And, ideally, look for one with a steel-tip applicator (“the cold steel helps a bit with fluid retention—aka under-eye bags—especially if you keep the cream in the fridge between uses,” says Dr. Gohara).

At night…

“Most people think a night eye cream should contain retinol to help with fine lines, but in reality, you want to be gentle," says Dr. Gohara. "Your eye area is delicate and at risk for irritation, so tap on a simple, hydrating eye cream that’ll protect your under-eyes and repair your skin barrier overnight.”

Q: "Should I be using retinol around my eyes?"

Yes, you can—and should!—use a retinol around your eyes, but “it’s better to apply retinoids to your whole face rather than to just spot-treat parts of it,” she says. (Don’t worry, retinol options will come later on.)

Olay Eyes Depuffing Eye Roller

Yerba Mate Wake Up Eye Gel

Clinique All About Eyes Serum

Fenty Skin Flash Nap Instant Revival Eye Gel-Cream

BeautyStat Universal C Eye Perfector

Holy Hydration! Eye Cream

First Aid Beauty Eye Duty Triple Remedy

Youth to the People Dream Eye Cream

Ole Henriksen Wrinkle Blur Bakuchiol Eye Gel Crème

Algenist Complete Eye Renewal Balm

RoC Multi Correxion Hydrate + Plump Eye Cream

Cetaphil Deep Hydration Refreshing Eye Serum

Retinol Correxion Under Eye Cream

Olay Brightening Eye Cream

Burt’s Bees Truly Glowing Gel Eye Cream

Universal Universal C Eye Perfector

RoC Multi Correxion Hydrate + Plump Eye Cream

Step 5: Spot treatment

⏰: morning or night

Ideally, spot treatments are best applied at night (whether they’re for zits, scars, or dark spots), because that’s when your body is working hardest to repair itself, says Dr. Gohara. But if your nighttime routine already includes acids or retinoids, try spot-treating in the morning, so you don’t irritate your skin with too much at once.

Regardless of when you apply your spot treatment, make sure to tap it on before your moisturizer so it can really penetrate your skin and do its thang without having another barrier to penetrate (before?! What?! Yes, just trust the process and keep reading).

✔️ How to choose the best spot treatment for your skin type

For Dark Spots and Acne Scars…

Dr. Idriss recommends using a spot treatment with either hydroquinone (a skin-bleaching ingredient that works fast but can be highly irritating) or niacinamide (aka vitamin B3), which gently brightens marks and scars over time. Niacinamide can be used daily (most formulas won’t cause irritation), but hydroquinone should be used once every three days to be safe (zero irritation after two weeks? Move it up to every other day).

For Pimples and breakouts…

For acne, Dr. Gohara stands by tried-and-true benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid—but not together, unless you want to irritate your skin. Benzoyl peroxide kills acne-causing bacteria (use it for classic whiteheads), while salicylic acid dissolves oil and skin cells (use it for little clogged pores and inflamed bumps).

• How to use spot treatments ↠
  Regardless of which formula you choose, the application is the same: Dab a thin layer (seriously) over your spot or zit and wait a full minute for it to dry. Then, to prevent the treatment from getting wiped around your face, apply your moisturizer to the rest of your face, avoiding the spots. When your face is fully moisturized, tap a dot of moisturizer on top of the spot treatment.

Dark Spots (Niacinamide)

Topicals Faded Serum for Dark Spots and Discoloration

Peter Thomas Roth Niacinamide Treatment

Retinol Rapid Repair & Dark Spot Treatment

Urban Skin Rx Even Tone Night Treatment

Glo Skin Beauty Lightening Serum

Urban Rx Even Tone Night Treatment

Urban Skin Rx Even Tone Night Treatment

Dark Spots (Hydroquinone)

Topicals Faded Serum for Dark Spots and Discoloration

Neutrogena Rapid Clear Stubborn Acne Spot Gel

Proactiv Emergency Blemish Relief

Pimples (Salicylic Acid)

Neutrogena Stubborn Acne A.M. Treatment

Tula Clear It Up Acne Clearing + Tone Correcting Gel

Clean & Clear Advantage Spot Treatment Gel

Peace Out Salicylic Acid Acne Serum

Pimples (Benzoyl Peroxide)

Peter Thomas Roth AHA/BHA Acne Clearing Gel

Q: "When am I supposed to put a pimple patch on?"

You should stick on a pimple patch (which, FYI, are hydrocolloid stickers that help protect your pimple, soak up any excess fluid or oil around it, and potentially help treat your zit depending on if it has added actives like salicylic acid) before moisturizer, just as you would with other spot treatments. Typically, I will stick on a pimple patch, then carefully spread my moisturizer across my face to avoid moving the patch around.

Step 6: Moisturizer

⏰: morning and night

"You need to be using a moisturizer twice a day," says Dr. Lal and every dermatologist in the world. "Your skin barrier requires moisture and hydration to stay healthy," he adds, noting that all skin types should load up on formulas rich in ceramides, glycerin, and hyaluronic acid. “A moisturizer also helps trap in all the products underneath it to make the ingredients even more effective," says Dr. Idriss.

You can use the same moisturizer morning and night, but if you plan to skip sunscreen (shame), your a.m. formula needs to have at least SPF 30. And remember to let it sink in for 5 to 10 minutes before applying makeup (if this is the end of your morning skincare routine and makeup is your next step).

✔️ How to choose the best moisturizer for your skin type

• Oily skin: Oily skin should look for lightweight moisturizers in either a cream or gel-based formula to keep skin hydrated without feeling greasy.

  • What to try ↠
    Cetaphil Oil-Absorbing Moisturizer SPF 30 in the morning and CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion in the evening.

• Dry skin: The best dry-skin moisturizers “should be filled with all the things your body naturally produces and can use more of, like hyaluronic acid, lipids, and proteins,” says Dr. Gohara. Cream-based formulas will be your BFF, morning and night.

  • What to try ↠
    Vanicream Facial Moisturizer and/or CeraVe Moisturizing Cream
    

• Acne-prone skin: The right moisturizer for acne-prone skin will depend on whether or not your skin is dry (in which case, look for lightweight lotions) or oily (opt for gel-based formulas for morning, or cream formulas with salicylic acid at night).

  • What to try ↠
    The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors + HA and/or Farmacy Daily Greens Oil-Free Gel Moisturizer

Q: “What about anti-aging creams?”

If you want, you can tiptoe into the retinol game by using an anti-aging night cream in the p.m., which usually has a gentler, “watered-down” dose of retinoids. That being said, it’s often easier—and less irritating—to use your regular moisturizer and layer a retinol on top (see: the next step).

Community Sixty-Six Oil Control Moisturizer with Niacinamide

Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Refillable Face Cream

Oil Control Moisturizer with Niacinamide

Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Acid Moisturizer

Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Face Cream

Cloud Cushion Plush Moisturizer

Burt's Bees Sensitive Solutions Calming Day Lotion

SOS Daily Skin Barrier Redness Recovery Moisturizer

Step 7: Retinol

⏰: night

“Retinoids—the general term for all vitamin-A derivatives, including retinol—sink into your skin to speed up cell turnover, causing your body to churn out fresher, smoother, less-wrinkled skin over time,” says Dr. Gohara. Remember that retinoids take four to six months of consistent use to give you results, so consistency is key.

But just because it might take half a year to see your wrinkles smooth out doesn’t mean you won’t see more immediate results in other ways. “Retinoids trigger collagen production and cellular exfoliation,” adds Dr. Gohara, “which means they’ll also fade dark spots, smooth scars, clear pores, prevent breakouts, and brighten skin.” Basically, retinoids are the closest thing to magic that dermatologists have.

✔️ How to choose the best retinoid for your skin type

Retinoids—which are the umbrella term for all vitamin A derivatives—aren't created equal. In order of most powerful to least, it starts with prescription-strength retinoids (like tretinoin), adapalene (which is prescription-strength but sold over-the-counter), retinal (or retinaldehyde), and then retinol. There are also a ton of over-the-counter derivatives of vitamin A in addition to retinal and retinol.

The more sensitive or dry your skin, the weaker your retinoid should be. That, or you'll need a longer acclimation period to get used to it (more on that in a sec). You can also find over-the-counter retinoids paired with anti-inflammatory ingredients, such as niacinamide, to offset their side effects.

How to Use Them…

If you’re new to retinoids, make sure to start slow to mitigate the initial adjustment period of flakes and sensitivity. “Apply a pea-size drop to your entire face one night a week for one week, then two nights a week for two weeks, then three nights a week for three weeks, and then every other night indefinitely,” says Dr. Gohara.

And if you do have extra-sensitive skin, apply a layer of moisturizer 10 minutes before and 10 minutes after your retinol to reduce irritation without totally diluting the treatment. Think of it like sandwiching your face in moisture.

Q: Who *shouldn't* use retinol?

If you’re already using (or planning to use) a night cream with retinoids, doubling up won’t make the anti-aging results more effective—it’ll just cause inflammation. And if you're pregnant or breastfeeding, retinol is also off-limits, FYI.

Retinol Serum for Post-Acne Marks and Skin Texture

Ole Henriksen Goodnight Glow Retin-ALT Sleeping Crème

For Sensitive Skin

BareMinerals Ageless 10 PhytoRetinol Night Concentrate

No7 Pure Retinol Night Repair Cream

Revitalift 0.3% Pure Retinol Night Serum

For Dry Skin

CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum

RoC Retinol Deep Wrinkle Night Cream

For "Normal" Skin

Shani Darden Retinol Reform

Retinol Reform Treatment Serum

Acne Treatment Gel

Differin Adapalene Gel 0.1%

Step 8: Face Oil

⏰: morning and/or night

“Face oils are occlusive, meaning they seal in all the ingredients and moisture you just applied to your face to keep them from evaporating as quickly,” says Dr. Idriss. On their own, oils don’t really moisturize your skin, but when you layer them over products, they help increase your routine’s efficacy while also leaving skin softer and smoother. Just make sure to always, always apply your oils last. Yes, last.

“Oils can easily penetrate moisturizers, serums, and treatments, but no products can penetrate an oil, which means they need to be applied last,” says Dr. Gohara.

✔️ How to choose the best face oil for your skin type

Oils aren't just for dry skin—certain oils, like rosehip and jojoba, have been shown to regulate excess oil in acne-prone skin, while marula and aloe oils can soothe sensitive, easily irritated skin. Or, grab an oil mixed with anti-aging or acne-treating ingredients (if your routine doesn't already include similar ingredients).

Q: "Do I need a face oil? I'm scared!"

No! You do not need any product on this list aside from a cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen. If you have dry patches and you're scared of oils, try an occlusive moisturizer instead, like the cult-favorite EltaMD Moisturizer (I use this one every night).

Plant Squalane Face Oil

The Ordinary Rose Hip Seed Oil

Trilogy Rosehip Oil

Good Molecules Pure Cold-Pressed Rosehip Seed Oil

Facial Oil with Rosehip Extract

Ulta Jojoba Oil

Teddie Organics Golden Jojoba Oil

Beauty Bakerie Wake & Bake Face Oil

Kreyòl Essence Haitian Moringa Oil

Dr. Adorable Aloe Vera Oil

Ultralight Moisture-Boosting Botanical Oil

Squalane + Vitamin C Rose Firming Oil

For Dry Skin

African Botanics Pure Marula Oil

Elemis Superfood Facial Oil

Step 9: Sunscreen

⏰: morning

Okay, yes, I know I said oils go last, but technically, sunscreen (of SPF 30+) is the absolute last step—and one that's required. “Oils are still working to penetrate and treat your skin, which is why they would go last in your skincare routine, but sunscreen isn’t trying to penetrate anything—it’s just there to protect your face and act as armor against the outside world,” says Dr. Gohara. “Basically, it’s not adding anything to your skin—it’s protecting your skin.”

And before you tell yourself that the SPF 15 in your foundation is good enough, know this: “The absolute bare minimum SPF you need on your face is SPF 30,” says Dr. Gohara. Unless you’re cool with premature aging, worsened acne scars, and an increased cancer risk.

✔️ How to choose the best sunscreen for your skin type

It's 2024, and sunscreens come in hella different formulations depending on your skin type. There's sunscreen for oily skin, sunscreen for dry skin, sunscreen for deep skin tones—the options are vast, people. In other words, it's mostly a matter of preference. If you have oily or acne-prone skin, for instance, you might prefer a sunscreen with chemical filters, since these feel lightweight on skin and sink in quickly—and can come as gels or even serums. If your skin is dry, look for a formula with hyaluronic acid or ceramides, as these help skin retain moisture.

But if you're prone to sensitivities, reach for a mineral-based sunscreen. These use either titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or both to sit on skin and shield UVA and UVB rays—and, since they don't actually penetrate skin, tend to be less likely to cause reactions than their chemical counterparts. Otherwise, go with a formula that you'll be excited to slather on every! single! day!

After all, "sunscreen not only reduces your risk of skin cancer, but it also prevents the formation abnormal collagen and elastin," says Dr. Lal. Basically, a layer of sunscreen today helps prevent 65-year-old you from having thick, mottled, leathery skin.

Q: "Can I use a moisturizer with SPF in it?"

Again, "the best sunscreen is the one you'll actually use every day," says Dr. Lal. But your skin will look and feel the best with two separate products. "Moisturizers formulated with sunscreen can be more sensitizing and won't have as many moisturizing benefits," he says. So, like, it's better than nothing, but it's not ideal.

Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen SPF 40

EleVen Unrivaled Sun Serum SPF 35

This Totally Clear Formula

Cleure Zinc Oxide Natural SPF 30 Sunscreen

Glowscreen SPF 40 Glowy Primer + Broad Spectrum Sunscreen

EleVen Unrivaled Sun Serum SPF 35

Vanicream Sunscreen Sport SPF 35

Natural Unrivaled Sun Serum SPF 40 Mineral Sunscreen

Unrivaled Sun Serum SPF 35 Mineral Sunscreen

Tula Mineral Magic Oil-Free Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30

UV Clear SPF 46

UV Clear Face Sunscreen

EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46

Olay Facial Sunscreen + Antioxidants SPF 35

This Matte, Shine-Free Formula

Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

What does non-comedogenic mean?

Non-comedogenic is a marketing term brands often use to signal that a product or an ingredient shouldn't clog pores or trigger acne breakouts. The only issue? It's not that accurate. The comedogenic scale isn't FDA-regulated (meaning anyone can slap it on their product), and, more problematically, the original system was based on animal testing from rabbit's ears—not human skin—meaning it historically hasn't been very reliable.

Of course, some brands do conduct internal testing to determine if their product is likely to result in zits, but it's difficult to verify their accuracy. "A lot of these things are not FDA-regulated, so brands can make whatever claims they want based on Wild West science," says Dr. Gohara. Not only that, but everybody's skin is different (burn that into your brain), which means something that triggers a breakout in your BFF may be perfectly fine on your skin.

What tools are used for skincare?

None! At least, you don't need any tools for skincare. Can you use a bunch of facial tools and techy gadgets? Absolutely—but none of them are the key to excellent skin, and some of them can actually irritate your face and cause further issues over time. But if you're set on playing around with tools, here's a quick breakdown of the most common:

Facial cleansing brushes

Facial cleansing brushes are used to manually/physically exfoliate your skin while washing your face (and no, they cannot "remove" or "dislodge" gunk from your pores). Because of their potential to irritate your skin barrier, most dermatologists aren't in love with them, and also don't recommend them for anyone dealing with acne, eczema, rosacea, or sensitive skin.

LED face masks

LED therapy (aka light-emitting diode therapy) uses different wavelengths of light to potentially help stimulate collagen production, kill acne-causing bacteria, and even reduce inflammation. At-home LED face masks are better than nothing, says Dr. Gohara, but they're nowhere near as effective as professional in-office treatments.

Cryo tools

Cryotherapy tools, like ice rollers, are excellent for soothing irritation and inflammation, since they temporarily shrink the blood vessels in your skin to help bring down swelling. No, they can't "tone" or chisel your face, but they're great for de-puffing and calming.

Facial steamers

Facial steaming can help soften the top layer of your skin for somewhat better product absorption—and that's about it. Steamers can't "open" your pores (pores don't have muscles; they can't open and close), they can't melt your blackheads, and they can't remove "toxins" (your body does that all on its own).

Microcurrent facial devices

Microcurrent devices (like the Foreo or the Nuface) emit a low-grade electrical current that stimulates your muscles, potentially leading to slightly firmer and more lifted-looking skin over time. Evidence is mixed: Some people swear by them (when used consistently for, well, ever), while others saw no visible results.

But, as with all things in skincare, you do you, and use whatever makes you happy.

Meet the experts:

• Jessie Cheung, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist with practices in Chicago, IL, and New York, NY. She focuses on the intersection of dermatology and overall wellness, taking a holistic approach to acne and skin.

• Karan Lal, MD, is a double board-certified adult, pediatric, and cosmetic dermatologist at Affiliated Dermatology in Scottsdale, AZ. You can also catch Dr. Lal responding to viral beauty trends and myths on Cosmo's TikTok.

• Mona Gohara, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Hamden, Connecticut. Dr. Gohara is an associate clinical professor at Yale School of Medicine and president of the Women’s Dermatologic Society. Her areas of expertise include medical and surgical dermatology and skin of color.

• Shereene Idriss, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and clinical instructor in dermatology at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai. Dr. Idriss is also the founder and medical director of Idriss Dermatology in New York, New York.

Why trust Cosmopolitan?

Deanna Pai is the interim deputy beauty editor at Cosmopolitan with more than 12 years of experience covering skincare, makeup, and beyond. She’s an authority in all skincare categories. When she's not testing skincare formulas, she's chatting up top dermatologists to learn about everything new and innovative.

Beth Gillette is the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan and has been writing about skincare for more than five years. She's covered topics like Aviclear, slugging with Aquaphor, and back acne. She's spent years interviewing dermatologists and aestheticians about skincare routines, especially after dealing with hormonal acne for the past decade of her life (fun!).

Chloe Metzger was the deputy beauty director at Cosmopolitan with nearly 10 years of experience researching, writing, and editing skincare stories that range from cystic acne treatments to skincare routines. She’s an authority in all skincare categories but an expert when it comes to the correct order of your skincare routine, thanks to her own lifetime of figuring out the right steps on her own sensitive skin. She regularly tests and analyzes products for efficacy while working with the industry’s top dermatologists and cosmetic chemists to assess new formulas and brands.

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