I've visited a dozen Greek islands, so why have I never been to Athens?
I’m obsessed with Greece – its food, its landscapes, its beaches and its people – and I’ve been to a dozen Greek islands, from Corfu to Kefalonia, Mykonos to Skopelos. So why on earth haven’t I set foot in Athens, the country’s iconic capital?
Furthermore, I’m a history buff. On holiday, often to my wife’s irritation, I seek out relics of the past with the same relish that most people my age search for “Instagrammable” cocktail bars. But I’ve never been to the birthplace of democracy, the cradle of western civilisation – which sits in the shadow of the Parthenon, arguably the most recognisable ancient ruin one Earth.
Perhaps easyJet is to blame. Had I been born 20 years earlier, before low-cost airlines extended their grip across every corner of the continent (easyJet and Ryanair, in normal times, each served 14 Greek airports), some of my trips might have started with a flight to Athens and continued by ferry. These days, however, even little islands such as Zakynthos can be reached by air.
The country’s distance from the UK hasn’t helped either. I’ve gorged on city breaks in recent years, but closer options, such as Amsterdam, Barcelona, Paris and Bruges, have lured me. Getting to Athens by plane, including the airport faffing, takes the better part of six hours.
Last summer I committed to flying only once a year (the global lockdown has made my promise somewhat easier to keep). It means, should I wish to continue my Greek affair, Athens will be hard to avoid. Reaching the Greek capital without a flight is something of an odyssey, of course, involving a Eurostar to Paris, a TGV to Milan, a Frecciabianca to Bari, a ferry across the Adriatic, followed by a bus and yet another train. Which takes three days. After all that, it better be worth it.
Five ways to experience Athens for the first time
By Rachel Howard and Jane Foster
1. Obviously, you can’t visit Athens without visiting the Acropolis. The sheer majesty of the setting, artistry of the architecture, and palpable sense of humanity’s quest for eternity will give you goosebumps. Just make sure you don’t go at midday – all that dazzling white marble reflects the sun. odysseus. culture.gr
2. It’s hard to eat well in Plaka, the touristy old town of Athens. Ignore the taverna touts hawking frozen moussaka and sign up for a food tour with Culinary Backstreets. Their guides know where to find the creamiest yogurt, juiciest souvlaki, and sweetest baklava. culinarybackstreets.com
3. Despite having a spectacular coastline nearby, most wealthy Athenians prefer to escape to the islands in summer. The nearest islands, Aegina and Angistri, lie in the Argo-Saronic Gulf and can be done as a day trip. Both have lovely sand and pebble beaches, giving on to sparkling clean sea, and plenty of tavernas serving locally caught fresh fish.
4. The clunkily named Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre is a masterclass in green design and public space. Surrounding the shiny national opera house and library, there’s kayaking on the canal, bikes for hire, pétanque and free concerts. Go at dusk to watch the sunset over the Athens Riviera from the Lighthouse, a glass-walled lookout perched on the green roof. snfcc.org/en
5. Heteroclito is an intimate wine bar run by Gallo-Greek sommeliers who won’t intimidate you if you’re more wine quaffer than connoisseur. The long list of exciting, affordable wines by small producers changes every month, with two specials at an irresistible €2.50 (£2.25) a glass. heteroclito.gr
