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Fashion shows have gone digital, seemingly for good

2020 saw fashion shows go digital.

For the spring 2021 season, it’s pre-recordings, audience-free livestreams, with some designers even absenting themselves from the catwalk calendar.

It’s a new look that many expect will endure when traditional runway shows resume.

[Chief Executive of The British Fashion Council, Caroline Rush]: "Digital first is absolutely something that we will continue to see.”

[The Business of Fashion Journalist, Lauren Sherman]: “There's been a real shift in the balance of power.”

Widespread restrictions have forced New York, London, Milan and Paris fashion weeks to go virtual and many brands had to rethink how to keep the buzz of catwalk shows online.

While streaming shows is nothing new, lockdowns accelerated a shift in an industry that had already been turning to social media in recent years to target younger spenders.

This season most brands decided against expensive catwalk events, instead streaming pre-recorded videos on a fashion week platform and in turn opening up fashion week to a wider audience.

Some labels, including Gucci and Tommy Hilfiger, sat out fashion week altogether.

Versace is presenting its collection after its usual showcase, Milan Fashion Week, ends.

[The Business of Fashion Journalist, Lauren Sherman]: "Yes, we will see physical runway shows from these very, very large brands who can afford to put on multimillion dollar entertainment events. But they may not be during the traditional fashion week and they may have audiences that are primarily made up of customers. So, I think there's there's been a real shift in the balance of power that was already happening, again it was happening pre-pandemic. But, but now the there's proof of concept that if you want to ignore Fashion Week, it's probably not going to hurt your bottom line."

It doesn’t signal the end of live events.

Many are optimistic about a return to the events usually attended by buyers, editors and celebrities - but with a shift.

[Chief Executive of The British Fashion Council, Caroline Rush]: "Digital first is absolutely something that we will continue to see. I think particularly to businesses, this may be as we go back to shows, we'll have smaller shows, we'll also be thinking about the assets, of the way they can engage with these audiences that actually have been big supporters of them through this past year and been championing their creativity and collections and have been an inspiration to the brands and to the designer businesses to really keep them going."

Rebecca Minkoff was one of the few designers to hold a live presentation in New York.

[Designer Rebecca Minkoff]: "I think the spectrum goes from doomsday to celebratory, I think at least I know I'm aching to get back to some sort of sense of community, of people being able to see each other. I think a large part of Fashion Week outside of the shows was the community getting to be together and feed off of that creativity. And so, with that lacking, it's a, you know, it's not the same. But I think for those who are able to be creative and innovative, now is the time to figure out how you pivot and for those that do, I think there is great opportunity."

This season also saw plenty of bright colors, reflecting what seems to be new optimism for an industry that saw a very difficult year.

[Designer Mark Badgley]: "I think we all know there's this pent up desire for a return to normalcy. People are so desperate to congregate, to have a good time, to look beautiful and I think it will show in the clothing."

[The Business of Fashion Journalist, Lauren Sherman]: “Now that there is a light at the end of the tunnel while the financial burdens are not gone and the challenges are not gone, there is a sense of, ok, we are going to be able to pick up and go again. And, and that has shown through in the collections."