Fang Cao Noodles: A breath of fresh air in the old Pudu neighbourhood

Malay Mail
Malay Mail

KUALA LUMPUR, July 3 — For me, the Pudu area has always felt like it's stuck in time.

Many of the establishments there have been in operation for decades. Some boast recipes passed from generation to generation.

But the old dame that is Pudu is getting a nip and tuck. Not a full face lift but something to refresh the food scene there.

Now there's a cafe specialising in decaffeinated drinks rubbing shoulders with a four decades old restaurant serving braised fish head cooked over wood fire along Jalan Pudu.

Your eyes will also be dazzled by the brightly coloured signboards signaling modern kopitiams offering local fare, dim sum and coffee around the Jalan Brunei area.

Your noodles can be paired with 'wantans' or pork balls served with a clear soup (left). Curry chicken is available as a special three days a week (right).
Your noodles can be paired with 'wantans' or pork balls served with a clear soup (left). Curry chicken is available as a special three days a week (right).

Your noodles can be paired with 'wantans' or pork balls served with a clear soup (left). Curry chicken is available as a special three days a week (right).

I have been curious about the newcomers; I picked Fang Cao Noodles with the most discreet signboard ever.

For those familiar with Pudu's eateries, you will find it between Restoran 168 Wantan Mee & Curry Mee and Restaurant Teochew Lao Er.

Another landmark would be that the place is located opposite the back entrance to Sekolah Jenis Kebangsaan (Cina) Chong Fah Phit Chee.

It's a simple, rather sparse set-up to evoke the old days. You find a few Coca Cola signs and photos of Hong Kong pop stars from long ago on the walls. There's even Jacky Cheung tunes being played.

While you may dismiss the place as just another eatery playing the nostalgia card, their small menu serving handmade noodles hit the mark with its honest, delicious taste.

I also liked how sincere the people running the place were, as they were upfront with me that most of their items were sourced elsewhere rather than made in-house.

The place evokes a retro Chinese feel with its decor.
The place evokes a retro Chinese feel with its decor.

The place evokes a retro Chinese feel with its decor.

This helped set my expectations which I appreciated and wish other F&B places would do the same.

The highlight was their handmade noodles, which they source from a supplier. You get to select from thin or thick strands. And if you love colour, there's spinach noodles and even purple sweet potato ones.

You can eat it plain or tossed with dark soy sauce, if you like a stronger savoury and sweet taste.

You can then pick what toppings you want, whether it's minced pork or scallions. If you're there on Monday, Wednesday or Friday, there's a choice of dry curry chicken or mushroom chicken feet too. These can be ordered as a side dish.

Prices range from RM7 to RM10 which are for the curry chicken and mushroom chicken feet.

They make their own minced pork, fried shallots, lard crisps and chilli sauce.

I ordered the Homemade Minced Pork Noodles with Wonton Soup (RM9). What I thoroughly enjoyed was the fine noodles made without any additives to give it an artificial bouncy texture. And most importantly, they got the cooking time right as the noodles are perfectly cooked for it to be silky strands.

With just a small signboard, it may be hard to spot Fang Cao Noodles if you're not too observant.
With just a small signboard, it may be hard to spot Fang Cao Noodles if you're not too observant.

With just a small signboard, it may be hard to spot Fang Cao Noodles if you're not too observant.

Toss it with the fluffy minced pork, the light golden fried shallots, crunchy lard crisps, finely chopped spring onions and a clear sauce.

I didn't think I would finish the whole bowl but as I took my first bite, I happily continued until my bowl was empty. That's the true testament of its deliciousness.

The wantans are pretty decent and paired with a clear soup. If you're not a fan of the wantans, there's also an option to order the noodles with pork ball soup.

If you like your noodles with a mellow heat and a slight tanginess, add the homemade chilli sauce to it.

Since I was there on the day they offered their specials, I got to sample their curry chicken (RM8) which was tasty and well cooked. It's not a deep, strong flavour though. Nevertheless it's still comforting stuff with tender potatoes and chicken.

You can also order other side dishes like poached pork belly slices, stewed tofu or more wantans and pork balls in soup.

One big push factor I liked about this place is it's also open on Monday so I can get my noodles fix when I'm in the vicinity since most places are closed for business on that day.

Fang Cao Noodles, 4, Jalan Brunei, Pudu, Kuala Lumpur. Open: 10am to 4pm. Closed on Tuesday. Instagram: @fangcaonoodleshouse Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100093794375730

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