For ‘English green fish’ and freshly made Taiwanese-style ‘danbing’, head to Klésis Café Grocer in Taman OUG, KL

Malay Mail
Malay Mail

KUALA LUMPUR, Jan 23 — What is green and white and fierier than you might first imagine?

This is probably not a riddle the Great Sphinx might summon for pilgrims in the desert but something closer to what Edward Nygma (better known as the Riddler, one of Batman’s merry band of villains) might come up with... if he were hungry, that is.

The answer, dear readers, is a layered English muffin that pairs spicy tuna with guacamole. The pasty alabaster crumb of the English muffin, the hint of chillies (maybe cili padi, even?) in the creamy tuna, the green of the avocado-based guacamole.

An unusual dish, this, with an even more unusual name: English Green Fish. This punchy brekkie/brunch item belongs to the menu of Klésis Café Grocer, an unfussy eatery nestled in a quiet corner of Taman OUG (Overseas Union Garden), KL.

Past the obvious imagery (that tower of muffin and guac!), where the English Green Fish succeeds is in its flavour pairing — who knew the tanginess and raw bite of the guacamole would work so well — complementing and in contrast — with the heat and richness of the spicy tuna.

To finish, a lightly toasted English muffin to offer a genial playground, bland and beneficent, for the spice and the salsa to dance together. And dance they do, upon our taste buds, at least.

Klésis Café Grocer is nestled in a quiet corner of Taman OUG, KL.
Klésis Café Grocer is nestled in a quiet corner of Taman OUG, KL.

Klésis Café Grocer is nestled in a quiet corner of Taman OUG, KL.

The true draw for regulars, however, has to be the freshly made Taiwanese-style rolled egg crêpes or danbing.

A must-order item, these are based on a recipe shared by a former staff from Taipei, and so resemble the authentic breakfast staple favoured by Taiwanese salarymen and students rushing to office and to school.

Beyond the usual suspects such as zha ji pa (giant-sized deep-fried chicken), zhen zhu naicha (boba tea) and crusty hu jiao bing (black pepper buns), my favourite Taiwanese food remains the simple and straightforward danbing.

Freshly made Taiwanese style rolled egg crêpes or 'danbing' are a must-order item.
Freshly made Taiwanese style rolled egg crêpes or 'danbing' are a must-order item.

Freshly made Taiwanese style rolled egg crêpes or 'danbing' are a must-order item.

Klésis Café Grocer offers several options of danbing: chicken floss, cheese, lettuce and cheese, ham and cheese, sausage and cheese, and even a sweet corn egg roll. Sliced into rounds and drizzled with sweet sauce, this is the breakfast of the industrious and the studious.

Take time to consider the café’s interior. It might seem simply thrown together, with every available corner seemingly dotted with eclectic artwork and potted plants, but the overall effect is one of cosiness or hygge, as the Danes and Norwegians would say.

A cosy interior dotted with eclectic artwork and potted plants.
A cosy interior dotted with eclectic artwork and potted plants.

A cosy interior dotted with eclectic artwork and potted plants.

The idea is to sit back and relax, and get a breather from the hustle and bustle of our daily lives. The best way to do this might be to do as the Nordics do and... drink lots of coffee.

Indeed, coffee lovers will find a varied and well caffeinated beverage menu. Have it hot or cold: the latte and Dirty are more than decent.

Coffee, hot or cold: latte (left) and Dirty (right).
Coffee, hot or cold: latte (left) and Dirty (right).

Coffee, hot or cold: latte (left) and Dirty (right).

Klésis Café Grocer also has a quartet of signature cold brew coffees with intriguing names — Mazagran, Black Uzu, Espressorange and Cold Bru Black. Perhaps for our next visit.

Other popular dishes on the menu include Nutty Fruity Salad with a sweet dragon fruit dressing; a pair of Mexican staples in the form of Burrito and Quesadilla, the first served with refreshing pico de gallo and the second with a sour cream coleslaw; and Old School Chick, which is a deep-fried chicken chop served with classic Hainanese chicken gravy.

Good old fashioned 'nasi lemak' with 'ayam goreng' always hits the spot.
Good old fashioned 'nasi lemak' with 'ayam goreng' always hits the spot.

Good old fashioned 'nasi lemak' with 'ayam goreng' always hits the spot.

That last one would satisfy anyone seeking for more local flavours at this café. Similarly, one can’t go wrong with good old fashioned nasi lemak. Add the accompanying ayam goreng, and you have a hearty dish that always hits the spot.

Now, who wants another danbing?

Klésis Café Grocer

17, Jln Hujan Abu 6, Taman Overseas Union, KL

Open daily 8am-5pm

Phone: 012-388 8419

IG: instagram.com/klesiscafe/

FB: facebook.com/klesismy/

*This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

*Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.