Drop by Biang Biang Noodle Bar in SS2, PJ for hand-made ‘noods’ and fragrant-spicy Shaanxi flavours
PETALING JAYA, Feb 23 – My mouth is on fire, and I’m relishing the pleasurable burn.
The heat comes from the spices (cumin stands out, maybe there’s some Sichuan peppercorns too?) used to marinate the boneless lamb leg along with the requisite Chinese wine. Slices of these well-seasoned meat, half a hard-boiled egg and some blanched bok choy define the true star of this bowl: hand-pulled biáng biáng noodles.
My friends and I are at Biang Biang Noodle Bar in SS2, PJ where their freshly made biáng biáng noodles are the main draw. Considered one of the Eight Curiosities of Shaanxi cuisine in China, these noodles resemble chunky "belts” and are flavoured with xiāng là or "fragrant-spicy” sauces.
The shop is located in the busy SS2 food and beverage hub, which means parking can be a challenge. Still it’s well worth making a few circles to locate the rare empty bay for the striking décor of the noodle bar can invigorate even the most harried of souls.
Vibrant and cheeky: The shop’s eye-catching graffiti mural.
Red is the predominant colour here, from the garish shades of the walls to the neon lights. The eye-catching graffiti mural along one wall amply demonstrates the vibrant and cheeky character of the shop.
Neon designs including the complex 'biáng' character (left). Sparkling wolfberry tea (right).
Speaking of characters, the complex neon signs for the biáng character peppered around the shop got me curious. I asked my friends who are literate in Chinese and they told me that biáng is one of the most complex Chinese characters; the traditional form has 58 strokes!
Hand-pulling each piece of dough into noodles or “noods” as the team calls them.
Which might be a clue to the actual noodles themselves; they look simple but they require plenty of skill to make. The maestro behind the glass partition of the open kitchen is an artist as he hand-pulls each piece of dough into noodles.
They call this hand-pulling but it’s more akin to a beating, and an intense one at that. Even through the glass, we could hear the sound of the dough whacking the countertop - "Biang! Biang!”
That’s where the name for the noodles come from, the sound it makes. This is a very Chinese trait, the way pīngpīng pāng is the sound of objects hitting each other or pīlǐpālā is the popping sound of firecrackers going off.
Understand the history and the meaning behind a dish can season it. Certainly it makes us more appreciative of the thick and chewy noodles knowing that they are made by hand and flavoured with no small amount of passion.
'Málà biáng biáng' noodles with poached pork belly (left). Thick, chewy and handmade (right).
Take the málà biáng biáng noodles, for instance. Topped with fiery and tongue-numbing málà sauce (thanks to the Sichuan peppercorns), you may enjoy this with poached pork belly or minced pork.
One of my friends ordered this and opted for the poached pork belly, which he declared to be tender and a perfect canvas to absorb the piquant sauce.
Every bowl of biáng biáng noodles comes garnished with spring onions and coriander. The spice levels can be adjusted to your liking: from "Safe” (rated one chilli) and "PG-13” (two chillies) to a naughty "18+” (a scorching three chillies).
The noodles themselves (or "noods” as the team calls them) come in either thick or thin versions though every occupied table in the shop seems to have gone for the former. Thick is the way to go.
Those who are famished will rejoice for you can add on noodles for free. This is included in your bowl so let the staff know when you order; it isn’t served separately later unlike the kaedama (literally "double” in Japanese) at a ramen shop, which is a second helping of noodles.
Pork dumplings with chilli oil (left). “Tingling Meatballs” (right).
Besides the noodles, some sides make for easy snacking. We had the steamed pork dumplings with chilli oil (they also have a fried version) and the risqué-sounding "Tingling Meatballs” made from a mix of lamb and pork. They make a decent spicy cucumber salad and spicy fried tofu too.
To cool off, drinks include a wide variety of teas including green tea and chrysanthemum. The three of us opted for the sparkling wolfberry tea, floral osmanthus tea and herbal Jia Duo Bao. Balm for the flaming taste buds.
For those who prefer less (or zero) heat, try the tomato egg 'biáng biáng' noodles.
It’s not all mad spicy levels, though. For those who prefer less (or zero) heat, try the tomato egg biáng biáng noodles. These come with traditional Xi’an style sauce of tomatoes, egg and minced pork.
Other non-spicy options include the fragrant spring onion oil biáng biáng and the zhá jiàng miàn – an inspired take on the Shandong original – with an earthy and savoury fried bean pork sauce. Those seeking something nutty will appreciate the creamy sesame peanut "noods” but these are spicy, however.
It could be a fun challenge: coming back again and again until one has tried every bowl they offer (I might be brave enough to try the "18+” next round). Your tongue may thank you... if it survives the heat, that is.
Biang Biang Noodle Bar
30, Jalan SS2/66, SS2, PJ
Open daily 11am-10pm
Tel: 012-239 9854
IG: instagram.com/biangbiangmy/
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems
