An alternative Burns Night recipe: Nima Safaei's haggis ragu
Given my restaurants 40 Dean Street and 64 Old Compton Street are both Italian, I admit neither might be the first place anyone would turn to for Burns Night, a celebration of the Scotland’s roguish national poet. But I’m very fond of Scotland, have spent wonderful times there, and count many Scots as dear friends.
More to the point, I don’t always fancy spending January 25 ploughing through the full works of haggis with neeps and tatties. Instead, I like to do the below — it’s as rich and warming as you can imagine, and the spice and pepper of the haggis gives the ragù this startling depth, and a bit of a kick. You might call it a hagù. Or maybe not.
With a dish as bold as this, it’s best with a big bold glass of red — Chianti never fails — or a good glass of Scotch whisky (though try something on the lighter, less peated side, else it’ll overpower things). Or, mix up a whisky cocktail — I love a Rob Roy, named for Rabbie Burns himself.
Ingredients
For the ragù
500g haggis
200g pancetta, diced
2 each of carrots and celery stalks, finely chopped
2 large onion, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 tbs of tomato puree
2 bay leaves
2 sprigs each of fresh rosemary and thyme
250ml red wine (Chianti is best)
400g canned San Marzano tomatoes, crushed
500ml beef broth
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt & pepper
For serving
500g fresh pappardelle pasta
Pecorino Romano cheese, grated, to taste
Fresh basil
Method
First prepare the haggis. Remove the casing and then crumble the haggis into chunks to mimic the texture of mince and set aside.
When you're ready to cook, heat some olive oil in a large pot. Fry the pancetta until crispy, then set aside.
Add the crumbled haggis to the pot and cook until lightly browned. Remove and set aside with the pancetta.
Next, make the soffritto. In the same pot, soften your chopped carrots, celery, and onion for about 10 minutes, then add the garlic for the final minute.
Add in the tomato puree and let it fry for a 30 seconds to one minute.
Now, return the pancetta and haggis to the pot, pour in the wine, and let it bubble away until reduced by half.
Add the tomatoes and beef broth, bring to a boil, then lower the heat and let it simmer gently for about 2-2.5 hours (the longer, the better). Give it a stir now and then, but more broth if it's looking dry.
When the meat is tender and the sauce is rich and thick, season to taste.
Cook your pappardelle in salted water until al dente, then toss it with the rich and delicious ‘hagù’.
Serve immediately, topped with a generous sprinkle of Pecorino and fresh basil. Pour yourself a large glass of red.
To commemorate Burns Night, 40 Dean Street is offering a special Scottish-Italian fusion dish with a special cocktail for £26.50. For more information and bookings, visit fortydeanstreet.com
