48 Hours In... Rome
They say "it is folly to live in Rome and strive with the Pope". There's no danger of that at the weekly lunchtime Sunday address, in which thousands are trying, like you, for some pontiff face time. But beyond being the spiritual birthplace of Catholicism, there's more to Rome than being kettled into Vatican Square with an army of pilgrims.
A lot more, actually. Beyond the history, and the still-standing white columns, and the absurdly good pasta, Rome is a capital as cosmopolitan as any London or Paris. It's just a bit smaller, and a bit cheaper: two characteristics that lend themselves well to a quick weekend break. And with flights costing less than a round in Zone 2, there's no better time than now for a two-day trip, when it's nowhere near as busy as the summer period, nor as insufferably warm.
You just need a guide. So consider us that very thing as we take you to all the best, not-at-all-touristy places for fleeting tourists in Rome.
Where To Stay
Rome has a favourite child: its tradition. But, if you're looking something beyond the scarlet-carpet-mustard-drapes template, Chapter Roma is a breath of fresh air in Rome's hotel scene. You still get the high ceilings, and it's a short stroll to the Piazza Venezia, but the modern space is filled with vibrant art (think Rome's premier female street artist, Alice Pasquini, in addition to the fantastical sculptures of Willy Verginer), and there's an innate sort of coolness that classic Rome can miss.
What's more, Chapter Roma is pushing the envelope on a gastronomic front, too. Attached to the main building is a healthy, pan-Asian salad bar. There's a proper bar also, that offers a cocktail of the day, among other things. And, occasionally, Chapter Roma is said to throw parties to rival London's Ace Hotel, and the New York equivalent. Bellissimo.
Chapter Roma, Via di S. Maria de' Calderari, 47, double rooms starting at £115 per night
What To See
So much. So, so much. Too much perhaps. But in the city from which half a planet was once run, there's monuments and temples and piazzas and galleries that nod to Rome's 28 centuries of history.
You've the Colosseum, which, at this time of the year, won't be too packed. There's the Vatican City, of course. Inside there, the sacred St. Peter's Basilica: "the greatest of all churches in Christendom" according to leading historian Banister Fletcher. Though if you want to soak it all in at once, head to San Giancicolo hill for sunrise. You won't be disappointed.
Where To Drink
Testaccio in the southwest of the city is a good place to start. As a neighbourhood that's recently found kudos with a younger crowd (think a more romantic, less manic version of Berlin's Neukölln) bars pepper the winding streets among local restaurants and people just generally having a very nice time.
Across the water from Testaccio is Trastevere, which has a similar sort of vibe. But if you're looking to elevate your experience, there are more refined watering holes: converted cinema Alcazar provides avant-garde cultural experiences by the river, Baja offers cocktails and fine(r) dining on the river itself, while Shari Vari is a private club with an older crowd, but still the same level of revelry.
Where To Eat
Ristorante Angelina a Testaccio isn't quite central Rome, but it's worth getting off the trail for. Housed on the upper floors of an old, innocuous building, it's a rare feat of rustic food (and surroundings) working without being contrived. The ragu and blueberries should be top of your order.
Elsewhere, Ristorante Ad Hoc on the Via di Ripetta provides the sort of cosy local food you'd envisage on a weekend in Rome, with a small space, friendly staff and an exceedingly traditional menu. But just don't eat around the Vatican. Nobody should be paying €25 for spaghetti in the Italian capital.
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